The beloved boat journey between Siem Reap and Battambang provinces resumed operations on August 1, much to the delight of travellers seeking a unique and immersive experience through Cambodia's floating villages and natural landscapes.

According to a recent post by the Battambang provincial Department of Tourism, cruise operators are now offering voyagers the opportunity to explore Tonle Sap Lake and the Sangke River.

Visitors can purchase boat tickets at hotels, guesthouses or directly from agents for companies such as Angkor Express Boat and Chann-Na Express Boat. 

Chheang Bunnath, a captain for Chann-Na, shared his excitement about the re-launch. 

“Today, my 30-seat boat carried 12 guests from Siem Reap, with some passengers boarding and disembarking at various floating villages,” he said. 

“We operate every high-water season, starting this year on August 1. I would like to thank the tourism department for promoting this service, which they had never done before,” he added.

The journey offers more than just transportation; it provides an in-depth look into the lives of those in floating villages such as Prek Toal and Bak Prea. 

Read: Prek Toal: Cultural to natural immersion

These communities rely heavily on waterway travel, making the service a vital part of their daily lives.

The trip, lasting between six and seven hours, was previously suspended due to low water levels caused by upstream water retention. 

However, with the rising tides, operations are back, much to the relief of both operators and travellers.

Bunnath expressed concern about the short period available for boat trips due to a Chinese company restricting water flow.

When contacted about the issue, a representative from Angkor Express chose not to comment. 

Min Dany, a ticket vendor for Sok Chamroeun Speed Boat, highlighted the long-standing history of their service. 

“We've been operating this route for over twenty years, mainly during the high-water season from August to March. This year, we started early in July due to the quick rise in water levels,” he said. 

The company offers a range of boat sizes to accommodate different group numbers, with prices set at $15 for Cambodians and $25 for foreign guests.

Their service from Siem Reap to Battambang operates once a day. Guests are picked up at specified locations at 6:30am and taken to the boat which departs at 7:30am. 

The waterway journey takes about six hours, as guests have lunch at Bak Prea village before continuing to their destination. Travel time can vary depending on wind factors as well.

Dany admits that this mode of transportation is less crowded, which is why only one boat runs per day. Most passengers are foreign, he said, with only 20 to 30 per cent local passengers.

Horm Arun, deputy director of the Battambang provincial tourism department, emphasised that the re-launch is not just about travel but about providing an experience. 

He said passengers can visit the flooded forest, observe the lives of people in floating villages and learn about fishing and other customs along the river.

A traveller's perspective

Sheree Hooker, an experienced globetrotter, shared her experience in December 2023 on the Southeast Asia Backpacker website. 

She described the boat ride from Siem Reap to Battambang as a unique adventure, offering a rare glimpse into authentic Cambodian life.

“The boat ride is a must-do for anyone looking to see a less touristy side of Cambodia,” she noted. 

Hooker said transforming a four-hour overland trip into a boat ride of up to nine hours might seem daunting, but the extended time provides a deeper connection with the local culture and scenery.

The ideal time for the journey is from August to February, when water levels are higher. During this period, boats are less likely to get stuck, ensuring a smoother and quicker trip. Travelling outside these months can significantly extend the journey time due to low water levels.

The journey begins at Chong Khneas Pier, weaving through Tonle Sap Lake and along the Sangke River. 

Travellers pass through floating villages and witness local wildlife and traditional fishing practices. 

“The route is incredibly scenic, with stops at non-touristy villages like Koh Chivaing, providing a unique cultural experience,” said Hooker.

Comfort and safety tips

Travellers should prepare themselves for hard plastic seats or wooden benches and exposure to the sun. Sunscreen and a sunhat are essential. 

“Sit at the front to avoid engine noise or bring earplugs if you sit elsewhere,” advised one seasoned sightseer. “You can also sit on the roof for a quieter ride.”

Despite some concerns about safety, such as the availability of life jackets and potential overcrowding, travellers report that the crafts are generally safe. 

“There were enough life jackets for everyone on our trip, and the boat wasn’t overcrowded,” Hooker noted, “however, mechanical issues can occur, potentially delaying the journey.”

Visitors planning to navigate the waterways should take note of a few essential tips to ensure a smooth journey. 

Booking tickets a day or two in advance is crucial, especially during peak season, with many accommodations in Siem Reap offering ticket sales. 

Snacks are a must due to the early start, despite a lunch stop halfway. Travellers are advised to use land toilets at the pier and at lunch, as onboard facilities are less ideal. Important items like toilet paper and hand sanitiser can help avoid unpleasant surprises. 

Sunglasses are recommended to protect eyes from flying debris and insects, and staying hydrated with plenty of water is vital in the intense heat. 

Lastly, carrying small change for tuk-tuk fares, typically ranging from $3 to $5, is advisable for travel from the outskirts of Battambang to the city centre.

"The boat ride from Siem Reap to Battambang offers a fascinating cultural immersion and is a highlight of any trip to Southeast Asia," said Hooker. 

The scenic journey offers a unique perspective on Cambodian life, making it a memorable experience for all who embark on it.