In the busy dining room of Les Restaurants des Enfants, affectionately known as the Children’s Kitchen, founder Ngauv Chhiv sits surrounded by a gaggle of eager young faces, his face etched with lines from years spent in the service of others.

Chhiv’s life and work represent a remarkable legacy of compassion and commitment to the future of Cambodian children, ensuring they have the opportunity to live healthier, more empowered lives.

As he turns 76, there are no lavish celebrations or grandiose cakes; instead, he shares a taste of tradition: Nom Ansam – sticky rice cakes wrapped neatly in banana leaves – a symbol of his connection to his Khmer culture.

Each child waits patiently, not just for the sweet taste of the cakes, but for the chance to share a connection with the man several generations of Cambodian children consider a surrogate “grandfather”.

With nothing but a vision of eradicating hunger and a lack of schooling, Chhiv has spent over three decades ensuring that every vulnerable child he encounters has the chance of a future filled with food, education and opportunity.

“The primary goal of establishing the Children’s Kitchen was to ensure that underprivileged children have access to sufficient food, as well as encourage regular school attendance. We aim to foster literacy and deter them from falling into drug abuse,” he tells The Post.

Touch Srey Keo, 21, was a child in dire need before she became acquainted with the Children’s Kitchen. She joined the organisation in 2010, its inaugural year.

Family life was challenging; her family couldn’t afford school. 

“I felt comfortable as soon as I met them, especially ‘Grandpa’ Chhiv. He supported my education and provided food for my family. I’m currently in my third year of law school and working part-time, managing the Chroy Changvar branch of the kitchen, where we feed 120 children and provide them with study materials,” she tells The Post.

“My life took an incredible turn when I found the Children’s Kitchen. Previously, higher education seemed beyond reach, my main concern was securing my next meal. With a nutritious diet and ongoing support, many opportunities opened up to me,” she adds.

Rising from the ashes

From the ruins of the genocidal Khmer Rouge regime to the classrooms of Phnom Penh, Chhiv’s journey is an incredible tale of selflessness.

Hailing from Takeo province, Chhiv became a teacher during the short-lived Lon Nol era of Marshal Lon Nol, who seized power through a military coup in the early 1970s. His career was tragically interrupted, like many others, by the rise to power of the Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot in 1975.

“During the fighting of the Lon Nol era, we fled to Phnom Penh and settled there permanently,” he recounts.

“After the capital fell to the Khmer Rouge, we were returned to Takeo, before being relocated to Battambang province, where we performed forced labour until the liberation of January 7, 1979. Once we were free, I returned to Phnom Penh and resumed teaching,” he adds.

After teaching for six years, Chhiv became deputy principal of Chey Chumneas Primary School in Boeung Keng Kang III commune, eventually becoming principal.

His mission to assist children began during his tenure as deputy principal, when he served as president of the Asian Children’s Association (ASPECA). Under his leadership, ASPECA Cambodia expanded its operations.

“We provided children with school supplies, sanitation facilities, clothing and food in nearly all provinces, except for some remote provinces such as Koh Kong, Preah Vihear and Ratanakkiri. We weren’t able to reach them, but other organisations were assisting there,” he explains.

After his time with ASPECA, Chhiv joined the International Centre for Children and Families (CIFA), dedicating himself to supporting some 1,500 vulnerable children.

In 2011, Chhiv retired as a school principal and left CIFA, in order to focus on the Children’s Kitchen, which was established a year earlier by Chhiv and Frenchman Yves Jacquin Depeyre.

Positive conditions

Children entering the Children’s Kitchen are required to wash their hands and feet, and are offered haircuts and finger and toe nail trims before they receive their first meal, in order to improve their self-esteem.

Placement tests are also given, to assess their educational level. If they are below their age-group, the organisation ensures they are enrolled in the school nearest to their home, and monitors their progress.

“Initially, we only accepted children aged 6 to 14, who were attending primary school,” Chhiv notes.

“However, these children brought their younger siblings, and we ended up buying milk for the infant children, and eventually decided we must help children of all ages,” he adds.

Chhiv explains that support is now offered until graduation.

The Children’s Kitchen also provides food, rice and water to vulnerable elderly people, as well as scavengers and their families.

Some university students also receive assistance from the kitchen, and assist the organisation with cooking and childcare during their free time. There are also several students who volunteer their time, without receiving support.

The organisation assists young adults with obtaining identity cards, enabling them to open bank accounts.

“Even at just $5 per time, they can save up to buy things like motorcycles and other modern necessities,” adds Chhiv.

They also prepare breakfast boxes and distribute them to children studying in places like Boeung Trabek Keut and Boeung Trabek Tbong. Food and other supplies are also distributed to children at other childcare centres, on a weekly or monthly basis.

Khmer hearts support Khmer

Young volunteers play a pivotal role in distributing materials, and often mobilise philanthropists.

Initially, the Children’s Kitchen relied entirely on foreign funding. However, local support began to emerge after one to two months of operation. However, European aid decreased by 40 per cent and fell another 30 per cent during the Covid-19 pandemic. Fortunately, Cambodian supporters were touched by their work, and stepped in to cover the funding shortfall, explains Chhiv.

“Local philanthropists have been an incredible help. They understand our cause and are actively involved in giving back,” he adds.

Donors contribute in various ways, sometimes cooking at the kitchen, or making donations of food or kitchen supplies on special occasions like birthdays, wedding anniversaries and memorial ceremonies.

“With a requirement for up to five tonnes of rice per month, even those donors who gift us half a bag of rice are invaluable,” says Chhiv.

After decades of service, he admits he cannot estimate whether the number of impoverished children has increased or decreased over the past few decades. Either way, he emphasises that there are still children in need, so the work must continue.

“Children can still be seen begging, so there remain kids who need our help,” he adds.

As he is growing older and battling chronic illness, Chhiv is happy to delegate his responsibilities to others, although he says he still takes the time to observe the children and make sure they are happy.

The next generation of angels

While they may want to see him take a break, Chhiv’s four children all support his work.

“One of my children lives in Europe but still manages to contribute. The other three all help as much as they can,” he tells The Post.

His daughter, Chhiv Phyrum, takes to social media to share a heartfelt message on her father’s 76th birthday.

“Since before I was 10 years old, I have witnessed my dad rescue thousands of children from garbage dumps and provide them with educational support. Now I am 43, and my father has never ceased his efforts to help children,” she writes.

Phyrum says that while the number of orphans may not be as high as it was in the 1980s, there are still children scavenging, begging, shining shoes, cleaning car windows and selling water on the streets rather than attending school.

She explains that many of these children still suffer from inadequate nutrition and do not have access to formal education.

On Chhiv’s 76th birthday, Phyrum encourages anyone who has interacted with Chhiv to share comments and provide brief descriptions of their past interactions to the Les Restaurants des Enfants social media, as well as wishing happy birthday to a man who has lived a long life of admirable service.