In Phnom Penh’s Chrang Chamres 1 commune, 20 to 30 individuals form small groups to examine fish freshly caught by local fishermen along the riverbank. This offers a glimpse into the routines of those acquiring fish for prahok (fermented fish paste), pha’ak (sour fermented fish), and smoked fish during the annual fishing season. 

The migration of fish from tributary rivers into the Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac rivers, typically occurring in mid to late December, creates an optimal environment for increased fish catches in Kandal and Phnom Penh.

The season for processing fermented and smoked fish commenced in mid-December in the Prek Pnov area and Ponhea Leu district of Kandal province. Commercial stationary trawlers, known locally as “dai”, can capture 100 to 150kg of fish every half hour.

The Fisheries Administration (FiA) issued a notice on December 18, urging prompt fish purchases to ensure buyers take advantage of this seasonal opportunity.

Bun Kimheang, a 45-year-old from Takeo province’s Tram Kak district, patiently waited in Chrang Chamres commune for almost three days to procure fish for prahok production, intending to sell Cambodian culinary staple in his province.

Pungent treasures

Kimheang shares that the riel fish (Henicorhynchus entmema) stands out as the most plentiful species in the Mekong basin, serving as a crucial ecological keystone. Fishermen or traders easily sell it for 1,200 riel (about $0.30) per kg without washing, while a kilogram of cleaned fish fetches a price of 4,200 riel.

“Just like before, this year I buy about three tonnes of fish for making prahok. It keeps us stocked for the whole year—I never let this chance slip by. If I can’t make it, my wife takes over because we only get this surplus of fish during the fishing season. It’s tough to find such a bounty outside of this time,” he says.

Kimheang adds that the cost of riel fish this year is pretty much in line with previous years. The current price is also reasonable for making natural prahok without relying on chemicals, with the pungent fish paste selling in the range of 8,000 to 10,000 riel per kg.

Lina, a 40-year-old Khmer Muslim and fish broker, acquires fish priced between 2,800 to 3,000 riel per kg, including heads. She says that once the fish undergoes head removal and cleaning, the cost varies, ranging from 4,200 to 4,500 riel per kg.

However, she mentions that as the fishing season kicks off this year, people from far-off provinces haven’t started buying fish just yet. It could be because they’re still caught up in the midst of rice harvesting.

“Looking at the beginning of this year’s fishing season versus the same time last year, I notice a boost in fish abundance. The water levels seem higher, and there’s a clear uptick in the fish population. Despite this, I haven’t spotted many people dropping by to buy just yet. They might be tied up with the rice harvesting hustle,” she says.

Moonlit bounty

Hor Ry, a young woman selling salt—an essential element in fish processing—shares that the current price for salt used in prahok production is 1,000 riel per kg. However, sales have been sluggish lately, likely because of the ongoing rice harvesting season.

Fishermen prepare to cast their nets in search of prahok on December 19.Hong Menea

“At the moment, I’m not moving as much salt because there aren’t many people buying fish for prahok. But come December 20 every year, there’s usually a big influx of people grabbing fish. I expect this year will follow the same pattern as before,” Ry says.

Chan Rithy, director of the Phnom Penh municipal Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, tells The Post that this year witnesses five rows of fishing trawlers spanning from Russey Keo to Prek Pnov.

From the waxing moon until January or February, an abundance of fish is anticipated. Some trawlers boast impressive catches, reaching upwards of 300 kg of fish per hour, signaling a substantial quantity with no issues. The hope is for more people to join in and purchase fish for making prahok.

Heng Sophearith, director of FiA’s Kandal provincial cantonment, shares insights from the Ponhea Leu district, where over 20 fishing trawlers operate. However, he highlights the need for specific conditions for fish to appear in ample numbers. He notes that dark weather or rain might deter large numbers of fish from showing up.

“The fish we use for crafting prahok is solely the riel fish. Right now, there’s a surplus of freshwater ray-finned fish from the carp and minnow family, but they aren’t suitable. Luckily, the riel fish is in good supply, and buyers are snapping it up for their prahok-making ventures,” he says.

Ministry’s splash

Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Dith Tina, joined by officials, kicked off the annual fishing season on December 19 with a visit to Tapov village in Koh Chen commune, Ponhea Leu district.

Their inspection revealed a notable uptick in fish production, bringing more satisfaction to those eager to buy fish for prahok. The ministry pledges to uphold its yearly scrutiny of the fish collection.

This year witnesses a 5 per cent increase in fish production compared to the previous year. The credit goes to dedicated efforts in tackling fishing crimes with utmost seriousness, clarity and responsibility.

Tina notes that the gathered fish are primarily of the type used for making fermented fish paste. In the early stages, around 70 per cent are freshwater ray-finned fish, 10 per cent are shark catfish and the remaining 20 per cent represent a mixed variety of species. The prahok processing follows internationally recognised sanitary and phytosanitary (SPS) measures, aligning with technical and export market standards.

He adds that, at present, most people still make prahok using traditional methods for household consumption. Yet, small and medium-sized enterprises are now venturing into processing prahok to meet market demands. They are actively seeking quality and safety certifications to boost confidence and add value for export purposes. 

Furthermore, the ministry introduced a fish paste processing competition last year, supported by Confirel, the first Cambodian company to secure triple international organic certification. Such competitions will continue in the future.

Typically, the prahok fishing season spans from October to February, contingent on the water conditions in Tonle Sap Lake. Stationary trawlers, blessed with clear skies and free from storms, tend to reap their harvests between December to January, often coinciding with a waxing moon phase.